Each Cook Must Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Best Food Spots.
When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.
An Shocking Recognition
The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the family utterly astonished.
“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.
The Appeal of Simplicity
The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.
The Star Dish: Tantuni
Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
Beyond the Basic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.
Surpassing the Titans
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.
The Creed of Hospitality
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
The Journey of Hard Work
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
A Achievement for the Culture
This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.